There are foods with health halos. And then there are probiotics,
which have practically been canonized. The word itself means—no big
whoop—"to give life."
Probiotics are now a nearly $37 billion industry in the U.S. Sales of probiotic-rich yogurt and kefir surged nearly 30 percent in the past three years. And just slapping "contains probiotics" on a product helps it sell better, says San Diego attorney Tim Blood, who specializes in consumer protection in advertising. Not too shabby for bacteria, right?
Probiotics are now a nearly $37 billion industry in the U.S. Sales of probiotic-rich yogurt and kefir surged nearly 30 percent in the past three years. And just slapping "contains probiotics" on a product helps it sell better, says San Diego attorney Tim Blood, who specializes in consumer protection in advertising. Not too shabby for bacteria, right?
Indeed, their initial claim to fame was hardly sexy:
soothing digestive disorders such as diarrhea, constipation, and acid
reflux, which plague 70 million people (mostly women). But that take on pro-b's
now feels as dated as a Jamie Lee Curtis Activia ad.
In their second act, probiotics—both in food and supplement
form—are being promoted as a magic wellness bullet, said to defeat
allergies and depression, boost immunity, and even combat chronic conditions
like Alzheimer's, diabetes, and migraines. As a result, they're no longer
limited solely to foods that naturally contain them (such as yogurt and
fermented fare like kimchi and miso); everything from bottled water to tortilla
chips is being laced with the friendly microbes.
Look, it makes sense that the gut would be ground zero for
easing all kinds of ailments. In the past decade, scientists have discovered
that the three pounds of microbes inside the digestive system—some 40 trillion
bacteria, fungi, and viruses collectively known as the microbiota—aren't
squatters mooching off a nutrient-rich environment. They're like a living organ
unto themselves, working with the body to lap up nutrients from food, squeeze
out germy invaders, and calibrate our immune systems. And since changes in the
microbiota have been linked to gastrointestinal conditions like irritable bowel
syndrome, adding "good" bacteria in the form of probiotics should boost
your health.
But put down your kombucha, friends, because science
has not quite proven that's the case yet, says Robert Hutkins, Ph.D., a
scientist at the Nebraska Food for Health Center in Lincoln. Of the hundreds of
identified probiotic strains, studies have only ID'd a handful that are helpful
in treating specific conditions. And there's no evidence they have much effect
on the microbiota of healthy individuals, per recent studies. Officials in
the E.U., where supplements are more heavily regulated than in the U.S.,
haven't authorized the use of the word probiotic to back any health
claim. The only approved use related to microorganisms is "live yogurt
cultures and improved lactose digestion." It can all feel like, well, a
punch to the gut. So we asked scientists at the forefront of probiotic research
to help us separate fact from hype, and pros...from cons.
Related: Top 13 Probiotic Foods
When you nosh or swallow a probiotic, it doesn't take up
permanent residence in your intestinal ecosystem with the bacteria that's there
already, says Hutkins. It might help crowd out a microorganism that's making
you sick (which is likely why probiotics have proven most useful against
infectious diarrhea), but it eventually just passes through the gut. That's why
it's impossible to take too many; you'll just poop them out. This in-and-out
nature also means that if you're aiming for a health benefit, you need to
ingest them almost daily.
Many of the probiotic strains added to foods are chosen
because they are safe and can be manufactured cheaply and easily. They're not
necessarily the ones that are best at maintaining health or treating disease.
Researchers are still trying to determine which strains are optimal for
specific conditions.
Make sure you have the right strain for your health problem
(get specific; some, like lactobacillus, have multiple forms, such as Lactobacillus
acidophilous and Lactobacillus reuteri, which help with different
conditions). Check that there are at least 1 billion CFUs (colony-forming
units) per serving, the approximate amount shown to be beneficial. If the
latter isn't on the label, don't assume you're getting it. Consumer Lab, an
independent group that tests supplements, found CFU counts ranging from 2.5
million per serving to around 900 billion. For kefir and yogurt, look for
"live cultures" or "live active cultures."
Mind the shelf life. Even if a product's label shows it has
the jackpot billion CFUs, they may not all be present when you swallow the
pill. That's because probiotics are living organisms; they can die when it's
too hot (if the label says to refrigerate, do it), and if they swelter too long
in transit or on a shelf, the bacteria may be DOA. Meaning, if you're out
running errands, pick up your probiotic supplements last, as they may lose some
of their potency if left in a hot car. The good bugs also decay over time, so
when you're shopping, choose the container with the furthest-out expiration
date.
Some strains can't survive the acidity of your gut. So if
you're taking a supplement, make sure it's coated; the outer shell will help it
reach your intestines intact. If you can find only an uncoated version, take it
with food to help protect it from the aggressive environment.
Even with antibiotic-associated diarrhea, which has the
best evidence, "you could have seven people take the same probiotic and
only have one report a definite difference," says gastroenterologist
Matthew Ciorba, M.D., a medical professor who studies human gut microbiota at Washington University School of Medicine in
St. Louis. That's because each person's microbial makeup is as unique as a
fingerprint, influenced by age, genetics, and gender. For example, animal
research from the University of Texas at Austin found the microbes living in
the guts of males and females react differently to the same diet. Scientists
are now studying ways to harness a person's own microbes to treat illnesses,
rather than going for a mass approach.
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